Catskill Mountains Paint Outs

I've always been fascinated with the Hudson River School Painters and although their painting style was only "in vogue" for a generation and a half, the epic works of Fredrick Church and Thomas Cole still hang in the country's finest museums, many of which are works of epic proportions.   These two painters along with a group of painters known as "The Ten," made pivotal contributions to the American painting movement. 

This fall, we drove to the Hudson Valley, traveling through the picturesque hills, ravines and riversides that inspired Thomas Cole and Fredrick Church.  The Cole Homestead was modest but beautifully situated on a hillside where his veranda had sweeping views of the Catskill Mountains - inspiring scenes he had painted.  

We toured the home, the grounds and his studio.  Here we got to see the four 1840 studies he executed in preparation for the renown paintings at the National Gallery in Washington, DC that comprise the "Voyage of Life" series.

Thomas Cole Voyage of Life Studies in Cole Studio

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

There is something special about standing in the same physical spot as a historical figure who lived, worked and touched the very work you are looking at!  

Thomas Cole's protege, Fredrick Church built his homestead nearby.   Not modest!  It was a hilltop mansion across the Hudson from Cole that was enormous by comparison. Church was a wealthy world traveler and collector.   The emphasis of his estate tour was more his status and lifestyle, but there were many beautiful paintings to see as well.   We painted from the location of Church's studio, a west facing vantage with views of his property leading down to the Hudson River.   

These two painters made their mark on the entire area.  When we hiked at the Kaaterskill Falls some of the trail markers had images of their paintings.   One Cole painting spot in particular was at the very lofty (scary!) overlook where we stood.  Great trip and of course, when we get to paint - even better!

  

Catskills View

Fredrick Church Studio View

Winter in St Augustine

Windy Day in the Dunes

It's mid-August, and I find myself just posting paintings from February!   We spent some time in beautiful St. Augustine, FL and did several plein air paintings.    The ocean is a must for us and this destination had the ocean and much more... history, architecture, gorgeous beaches and of course a seemingly unlimited number of food options. It beat shoveling!   

To the east was the ocean; to the west, the Matanzas River.  We pretty much canvassed the whole area.  And always we returned to the beach for extensive walks and of course some paint outs.

The paths to the shore consisted of a very wide swathe of dunes.   So pretty!

St Augustine Beach Dunes

Pink Dunes

Matanzas Inlet

At the southernmost tip of St Augustine Island was the Matanzas Inlet.   This uprooted tree replanted itself on the river bank creating lots of shadows set off by the blinding light. 

 

 

 

Bridge of Lions

We frequented the historic downtown area often, touring, shopping and eating.  Of course, as the nation's oldest city, founded in 1565, there were forts, piers, shrines, quaint alleys and bridges all worth visiting.

St Augustine - plein air painter approved! 😊

Corner of Bridge and Avenida Menendez

Brushy Texas Tidal Stream

At the East Beach salt march, things were surprisingly "non-green".  It had a tan/pink look to it.   I guess I was not expecting that a place like Galveston, known for its warm weather would have "winter" where growth turns brown and gusty winds blow.   

The days still were relatively mild for us New Englanders.   We set up for painting along the access road to East Beach where the shipping lanes for Houston parallel the shore.   I faced a tidal inlet with the large, public bathhouse in the far distance.  To the left,  there was a constant flow of large colorful oil tankers.   We also spotted plenty of natural elements like egrets and shore birds, presumably wintering from our areas in the north.

Brushy Texas Tidal Stream

Beach Grasses and Sloping Seawall

Beach Grasses and Sloping Seawall

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Galveston's seawall is an important part of the island.   After the hurricane of 1909 it was built in the hope of preventing the level of devastation that occurred.   They say that every structure in Galveston sustained damage and hundreds of people died.    The location of this painting was on the beach with the main seawall behind me.   The large stone structure on the right is part of a seawall ramp down to the sand.   It acted as a great wind blocker too!  The painting also depicts one of the many jetties that jut out into the Gulf.  It was a winter day to remember.

Brown Pelican

Brown Pelican

 

 

 

 

 

 

At Seawolf Park in Galveston, TX, there is an enormous boardwalk with WWII vessels, and several fishing piers that overlook the busy channel complete with oil tankers, auto ferries and cruise ships.    We chose this spot for the views and all the channel action.    I had plenty of visitors while I painted, military personnel, tourists, and fishermen.  The friendliest observer of all though was this (not shy) brown pelican.  He literally landed on this railing from a glide roughly two feet above my head.   If he wasn't in this painting, I'd be leaving out the most memorable part of the experience.

Jamaican Fisherman

Jamaican Fisherman

Where there is water, there is fishing.  On vacation in Jamaica we noticed that just like in New England, the fishermen are out early and most of the fishing we saw looked something like this scene.  There would be a small, crusty boat with one or two fishermen in the shallows working with nets.  

As for the painting, the vivid turquoise of the water was dazzling bright and it seemed to illuminate - even exaggerate the figure.  This painting was done over a bright orange undertone which was meant to compliment the flesh tones. 

Frozen Feeder Spring

Frozen Feeder Stream

It occurred to me that one of the main reasons I like to paint sunny snow scenes is that it fulfills my desire to span the entire value spectrum (where value = lightness to darkness).  Whereas a foggy scene would have no super darks or super lights because everything is muted, a bright sunny day in the sun is another story,     Like in last week's Wilton Winter Mill, the darkest darks in the water occur because of winter's low sun angle, yet the snow can be brilliantly light because it is translucent.  

Of course the other reason I like to paint snow is that - usually - that is our reality for at least three months of the year.  Why not embrace it?!

Today's painting is a similar color palette, and has that same wide value range from darkest to lightest.   This painting is my favorite so far this season and was done on an aluminum panel.   On the painting's surface, the metal shows through and where it does, it looks a bit shimmery.  I also scraped off paint with the tip of my palette knife revealing aluminum to represent dry grasses.   

This is a New Hampshire scene along the edge of a pond where a little brook traveled under a footbridge.   Over to my left, there were people ice fishing and even a few vehicles sitting on the ice. Yikes, but this end looked melty and so picturesque!

Plein Air Hancock, NH

It took just under two hours to get to Hancock, NH for our February painting getaway. My husband and I were each able to get two paintings done in the three days.  The conditions were rough the first day as it was cloudy, freezing cold - and windy.  Additionally, I was standing in snow.   I was quickly chilled to the bone.  It did make me paint faster than usual, although the paint was quite sluggish.   Hahaha...it was great!   I sought hot tea immediately once we got to the Inn and happily let their elderly Golden Retriever rest his warm head in my lap.

Snowy Gate

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By contrast, the next day was glorious. The full sunshine gave a brilliant glow to everything in sight. The black and white world from the previous day was now full of lively color, blue sky, yellow inn, red barn, and golden, sunlit pile of firewood.  I never did clean off my palette from the first day, so its no wonder that the snow colors look very similar.   The photo belies the bright color in the actual painting, especially the red, and now I'm thinking I should make things brighter still.  Paintings that reside in the studio are never really done!

Barn Out Back

 

 

 

Tropical Watercolors Jamaica

Beeline to Purple Spikes

I seriously thought about packing my oils for Jamaica, but elected to again bring watercolors.   They are so much cleaner, and lighter for packing, but as I've noted many times before, I'm not a watercolorist.   Watercolor experts are in a league of their own in my view.   I'll share a few amateur tries today. The colors look a little washed out - see?  I can't get good color! :)

Big Old Leaning Tree - Jamaica

Beach Huts at Dusk

View from my Chair

Homestead Ruins & Pasture - Isle of Doagh Ireland

McColgan Farmhouse

In the late 1800’s, two brothers and their respective families lived and worked two side-by-side farms on the Isle of Doagh, County Donegal, Ireland.    One brother’s name was John McColgan and the other’s name was Edward McColgan. 

    

John and his wife Grace had fourteen children.  They lived in the “larger” farmhouse which was also the house where the two brothers had been born and raised.    Edward and his wife Bridget acquired the land next to this original homestead and had eight children of their own.    In late 1898, Edward contracted consumption, a contagious disease that reached epidemic levels in Ireland and Britain at that time.   Today, the disease is known as tuberculosis.  Sadly, his wife Bridget soon contracted the disease as well.   They died within a month of each other in the winter of 1899.  

Four of their daughters and one son, ages 10, 14, 16, 19 and 21 were orphaned.   Their two oldest daughters had emigrated to Boston years earlier, when they had turned eighteen.   Their son Michael Joseph (my grandfather) had also emigrated one year earlier.

  

There was discussion of the siblings staying in Ireland under the supervision of their aunt and uncle next door, but with fourteen children of their own, John and Grace were likely unable to support five more.  Hence in 1900, the five siblings travelled together to Boston and settled in with their older siblings. The younger daughters moved in with their older sisters, each of whom were married at that point.  One daughter enrolled in nursing school at Massachusetts General Hospital.

As for the property owned by Edward and Bridget, it was sold to a cousin who continued to farm the fields but let the house fall to ruin.   The original farmhouse still stands and is in good condition.   In fact, it was getting a new thatched roof during our visit.   If you Watch The Video, it is the neat little white farmhouse with the red doors.

Donegal Homestead

Maybe you can imagine the feeling I had as I stood on the cart path just above the two homesteads, one farmhouse still standing and the other, barely recognizable ruins.  I had a tingly feeling to think that this was the land of my ancestors, where they lived, worked and died.  The sheep and cattle were probably of the same lineage through the years. Why, even the wild raspberries I sampled were probably the same as those eaten by the family.     Spirits of the past!   This visit and paint-out may have been the most gratifying of all.   I’m hoping the deep rich crimson darks and vivid green lights of the land shine through.

Westport Cove View - Ireland

Westport Cove - Color Study Final

The waterfront at Westport was one of my favorite spots for scenery in Ireland and we visited three times.  I chose a scene with this rustic boathouse on an beautiful inlet.  I later learned that what Motif #1 is to Rockport, MA, this painting scene is to Westport Harbor.   I got down in the mucky low tide to capture the scene I wanted.   The boathouse was stunning, especially its red roof, but the decrepit turquoise boat in the foreground was my favorite element.  It's great when an element is so decayed that a rough stroke with a palette knife is just the thing that makes it come alive.

Croagh Patrick from Murrisk Island - Westport Ireland

Westport River Channel

Our next stop in Western Ireland was Westport.   Similar to previous days, it started out sunny, but the clouds eventually took over, producing rain, then the sun came out again.   The town itself was beautiful with the river channel passing through the middle. There were arched stone bridges that crossed the river in several places, and these were adorned with lush flower boxes and blooms hanging down nearly to the water.  I didn't actually paint in town, but these scenes were gorgeous and I hope to paint a scene or two from the photos as I build up the Ireland painting collection. 

Croagh Patrick from Murrisk Island

Climbing Croagh Patrick, about 5 miles from us was on the agenda, and I will state right up front, it didn't happen (for various reasons, one of which was the rainy forecast).   The peak is one of the larger mountains in Ireland and is most well known because pilgrims (some barefoot) climb to the summit Chapel as an act of penance.  Historical accounts describe this sacred place as the mountain where Saint Patrick fasted and prayed for forty days in the year 441 A.D..  The peak is clearly visible from most of the Westport area and since we didn't actually climb it, I figures it would be wholly appropriate to pay homage via this painting.

We set up to paint about a mile from the trailhead on a small connected island, home of the fishing village called Murrisk.   Careful observation of the mountain revealed figures of climbers - small specs - silhouetted on left side of the slope.   It was very windy on this day.   My husband wisely chose a spot behind a wall and benefited from his wind blocker.  I chose a higher vantage point and paid a price, my biggest obstacle being my inability to keep my brush steady.     What colors!  Every shade of green, but also, reds, purples, golds, yellows...and even better when the sun peaked out!

Click here to see my view while I painted.

Dingle Harbor View - Ireland

Dingle Valley Greens

We had planned a whole day of exploring the Dingle Peninsula.  We left sunny Killorgen early and as we made our way toward Dingle Bay and drove through the valley, I saw the greenest greens I have ever seen!  It was a classic vista of green pastures and easily one of the ten most beautiful spots I have ever seen in person.   Yes, it would have been great to paint there, but due to the narrow, busy road, it was not conducive to safety or quiet.  We settled for stopping and getting a nice long look; perhaps a future studio painting!

Dingle Harbor View - Painting and Scene

When we arrived in Dingle Harbor, we walked around a bit both for touring and for deciding on a place to paint.   There were lots of choices and the bustle of the town area with its colorful buildings was enticing. 

Dingle Harbor

We noticed a long walking path and green space from with the whole span of the colorful town was visible, and that was where we set up.    This scene was an ambitious undertaking and as it turned out, actually took nearly three hours instead of the usual two hours.

"Painterly" is a word that describes a painting style in which the paint is applied in a way that is not realistic, but gives the essence of a scene through the colors and brushstrokes.   This painting is an example of a more painterly approach.   An honest, untrained eye might call it messy! :))

Silver Birch - Molls Gap

Silver Birch - Molls Gap

More spectacular scenery on our next sojourn from Kenmare to Killorgen.  We passed through the mountains and a particularly beautiful mountain pass called Molls Gap.   It is so well known that dozens of tour busses stop here daily.  


We set up our easels well out of the way of the tourist paths, although several people were curious enough to trek to where we were and take a look.  I chose the birch since it framed the long view of the lakes and yet more gorgeous mountains in the distance.  Again the goal was to capture the colors live and in person.  The valley was copper colored but the photos depict it as beige....hence the value of plein air painting.

Healy Pass Panorama - Beara Penninsula Ireland

Painting at Healy Pass

Outward bound toward Beara Penninsula, we drove the road that parallels the coastline.   After painting in the rain (see Rainy Country Road), we arrived in Castletownbere where we enjoyed expertly made coffees, served with unbounded warmth and friendliness.   (Can we bottle that and bring it home, we thought?  Not the coffee, the cordiality:))    This nice stop in the Southwestern region of Ireland re-energized us in preparation for the return trip.  It was my driving day, a deliberate plan because of the hair-raising nature of this leg of the sojourn.  (It is less terrifying for the greater neurotic to be in control.. lol)  In fact, why don't I share a snippet of it here.

Healy Pass - Beara Penninsula

As you saw, once we were just beyond the highest elevation, we pulled over.   What a spectacular panorama!  I just had to do a quick sketch.   The colors of the mountains, slopes and valley were indescribable.   The color match was what I was after, and in the end I was glad I did.   The river bed was literally golden and copper colored in person, yet the photos depict that same area as a murky dark tan.  The small mountain on the right looked like a peachy color, similar to salmon, breaking the rule about the blue in receding mountains.   So pretty!  True color matching can't be achieved from a photo - my strong personal opinion!

Rainy Country Road - Beara Penninsula Ireland

Rainy Country Road - Beara Penninsula

The sky in Kenmare was bright and sunny when we began our scenic drive through the expansive Beara Penninsula in Southwestern Ireland.   We hoped to find a great spot to paint near Allihies, the region where my husband's ancestors originated.   Intermittent rain and drizzle had begun, but we remained hopeful that it was temporary.   The drizzle did let up when we pulled over near a scenic spot east of Allihies.    The long and winding road snaked its way down a valley and the Atlantic Ocean bordered the land to the east.  The moisture gave the scene a misty feel and it made the distant cliffs look pale gray.

WET Painting

 We started painting with vigor, and the thing about painting is, its hard to stop halfway, and before long, it was raining again.   We had raindrops dripping from our hoods, paintings, and palettes.  We kept painting; were we in a trance?    I felt like the two colors I most wanted to color-capture were the stones of the wall and the grasses just above it, so once that was done, I started to pack up.   I blotted my painting with a dry paper towel and wiped down my palette.  We left our paintings and palettes out to "dry" in the rear of the vehicle.   Its a good thing it is oil color!

Rainy Country Road - Beara Penninsula Ireland - Color Study Final

I can't share much about my painting process on this day.   I was on autopilot and on a mission to finish a painted sketch...here it is.    It will serve as a color study for a larger painting in the coming weeks.   This one was hard earned!

Hayfield Harvest at Dusk- Ireland

Hayfield Harvest at Dusk

It was late afternoon of the day we arrived in Kenmare, Ireland.  The plan was to paint the following day somewhere along our drive of the Beara Pennisula, so I decided to go to our vehicle and get ready.  As I was squeezing out fresh color onto the palette and organizing my gear I took a good look around.   I was surrounded by picturesque scenes in every direction.   There were lovely flower gardens, tall stone walls with an arched, embedded gate, and a water fountain.   These subjects were tempting but they were already mostly in shade and daylight was waning.  

A tractor had been noisily harvesting and baling the next property over, and with perfect timing, and maybe the luck of the Irish, he finished as the sun broke out.   It lit up the field, the green pastures and the mountains with almost magical golden light.  I broke out my easel and the result is this (very rapid) color study.  For me, speed means palette knife and very thick, bold paint application. 

It was a good thing this was toward the beginning of the trip given the amount of paint that was applied.   What a memorable experience and the color study will be useful in the future for a large studio painting.

Farmhouse Ruins - Donegal

Farmhouse Ruins - Donegal

These farmhouse ruins are adjacent to a new farmhouse on Fegart Road, Isle of Doagh, Donegal.   The September light illuminates the green grasses, and the colorful lichen on the crumbling stone walls.    The nothern-most tip of Ireland, Malin Head, is the mountain ridge in the distance.

Relaxing Riverside

Relaxing Riverside

We carved out time during a trip to Western MA for plein air painting.  Lots of streams and rivers crisscross the Connecticut River Valley.   We stumbled upon this beautiful spot along Millers River in Erving, MA.   I shouldn't say that its discovery was completely by chance, because my husband speculated that there would be access spots below the several bridges that traverse the waterways.   Similar to how people hang out and relax at the ocean shoreline, a few people sat in the shade of the bridge buttress enjoying the water.   This sweet pooch was full of energy and would greet all who came down the path.   He also put on a show for us.  He would float with the river current, then scramble to the edge and bound back to his owner, who barely moved a muscle.